Foxsister, Brandon Kirksey’s unorthodox and occasionally chili-oil-filled Korean restaurant on 24th Street has been a spot for soju slushies and various bulgogis ever since it opened last November. It’s also no stranger to switch-ups. Over the summer, Kirksey, who’s put in stints at Slanted Door and Jardinière, added a Korean fried-chicken dinner and a Saturday-and-Sunday brunch called Benedict that serves a number of variations on that weekend staple.
Now, for its one-year anniversary, Foxsister has changed things up again. As of Nov. 7, the entire menu has gotten an overhaul to look beyond the Korean peninsula. The queso dip and the fried chicken aren’t going anywhere, but they’ll be joined by more upscale fare like a house-made Thai-style sausage and semolina fried oysters with preserved lemon and roe. In a nod to its chef’s work in Italian kitchens, Foxsister will also offer a bunch of house-made noodle dishes, cleverly threading a needle that other “universal pasta” concepts failed to execute with much panache. With help from beverage director Anna Nguyen (formerly of Robin, Kinjo, and Liholiho Yacht Club), Foxsister will reorient to become sake-centric, anchoring it to the pastas in the manner of an old-school Italian joint.
In other words, Foxsister is expanding from its initial plan rather than abandoning it altogether. And Benedict, the weekend pop-up that went permanent, is staying right where it is. Change is good but some things are too tasty to mess with.
Foxsister, 3161 24th St., 415-928-7814 or foxsister.com