Press the Point: Media Noche Ups Its Cubano Game

Telmo Faria of Uma Casa is the first chef in the series.

Media Noche (Peter Lawrence Kane)

Having established itself in only a few months as the prime South Florida-Cuban joint in a neighborhood filled with wonderful Mexican taquerias, Media Noche has become the place for pressed sandwiches full of pork shoulder, Swiss, mustard, and pickles (a combination it’s difficult even to read on a menu without a Pavlovian craving).

Fully aware of the magic, the team behind it has launched a “Chefs’ Cubano” series for which a different S.F. kitchen master creates a signature sandwich every month, with 10 percent of the proceeds going to a good cause.

Uma Casa’s Telmo Faria is first, and his “Bifana” Cubano ($12.50) plays with traditional Portuguese sandwiches, marrying marinated pork loin with arugula and a sweet pepper-and-onion sofrito that’s available for the remainder of November. December hands the reins to Ne Timeas Group’s Ryan Pollnow, while Liza Shaw (of the former Merigan’s Sub Shop) and Evan Rich (Rich Table, R.T. Rotisserie) wait in the wings.

The other singular pleasure of eating at Media Noche is the Moon Bars, ice cream on a stick that’s dipped in chocolate. Whether or not a collaboration in that department ever materializes, we highly recommend Mi Abuelita Favorita, a guava cheesecake ice cream with crushed Maria cookies.

Media Noche, 3465 19th St., 415-655-3904 or medianochesf.com

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