Hair of the Dog: Piccino's Heavy Artillery

Piccino's egg-topped Salciccia pizza.

For mornings after one or 10 too many, SFoodie offers a weekly recommendation on where to run when a hangover calls. Hey, it happens to the best of us.

In lieu of the boozy hangover fighters you're used to, Piccino is offering up bread, eggs, and cheese in killer incarnations to start 2010 right.

In what's arguably a gesture of pure gluttony and celebration, owner Sher Rogat is topping pizzas with Sonoma foie today. “We're pulling out all the stops for New Year's,” she told us. “I've never done a pizza with foie on it before, but I figure, why not?”

But while the foie is an extravagant gesture worthy of the holiday, a hangover toughest adversary might be Piccino's Salciccia, a pizza bianco topped with sausage made in house from Marin Sun Farms pork. Vegetarians might want to choose the Funghi, a mushroom-topped foe made more lethal with an oozing cap of deadly Bellwether Crescenza. Arm either with two freshly cracked Soul Food Farm egg bombs, and your hangover will no doubt head for the hills before the second course.

Hangover killer numero duo is Piccino's free-form bread pudding, bearing possible seasonal weapons like persimmon and caramelized onions, maybe even pancetta. A microplaned snowfall of fresh Parmesan and a side of dressed bitter greens distract from the richness. Rogat suggests deploying a fresh citrus mimosa to go with either or both of these, an echo of last night's bubbly with a cheerful twist. We could get used to this.

Piccino 801 22nd St. (at Tennessee), 824-4224

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