Mecca Makes The Shit List: Bauer Lays The Hurt On

I have to admit, I love when this happens. Chronicle food critic Michael Bauer is not happy, and you know what that means: culinary bitch slap! Following a fire last summer and subsequent remodeling (not to mention the loss of crowd-pleasing Chef Randy Lewis), Mecca (2029 Market at Reservoir) done fucked up. The highlights, or lowlights, as follows:

In the 'Ho, Snap!' category:

  • “Instead of the light, fresh food that once buoyed the spirits, there are now heavy, mostly sweet and soft concoctions that seem to be trapped in the 1980s.”
  • “None of the nine dishes we tried were very good and one – sweet potato gnocchi with chewy fried spinach ($18) – was inedible.”
  • In the 'Daaamn Son!' category:

  • “I remember fondly the truffle Kobe beef sliders ($12) that Lewis put on the menu. They are one of the few things retained in the new menu, but they're a mere shadow of what they were. The three patties were thin and dry and the bun tasted stale; the tomato confit and the caramelized onions dominated.”
  • “Those people had the right idea – go for a cocktail, even though most are $11 or $12, and head somewhere else for dinner.”
  • And finally, in the 'Oh no he didn't!' category:

  • “The cheesecake tasted like something you'd pull out of the freezer, and the beer ice cream seemed like overkill.”
  • “How are these often overwrought combinations considered lounge food, I wondered?”
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