Though the stone fruit season is coming to a close, there’s still time to savor some late-season stunners at Myriad Gastropub.
Having cooked her way through Roti, MoMo’s, Helios Global Brasserie and the Mission's Spanish Ramblas, Myriad chef and owner Trish Tracey has assembled quite the assortment of international entrees in her repertoire. She pulled out some of her favorites when crafting this summer's menu for the Mission bistro that opened this past June. With an emphasis on small plates and shared dining, Myriad is globally and seasonally-inspired, with hand-picked offerings that — at their best — are as fresh and show-stopping as their ingredients. Take, for example, Myriad's grilled peaches.
[jump] Located mid-way down the small plates section on the dinner menu, the drawing point of the peaches isn’t their description so much as it is their presentation.
Cradled in a thin pool of goat cheese mousse, three wedges of a Frog Hollow peach glisten in the sheen of their own sweet secretions. Each bears telltale, coal-black grill marks, a contrast to their bright yellow flesh. A drizzle of basil oil and a dash of toasted hazelnuts provide flavor notes to contrast the dolce of the fruit and the decadence of the cream. One dripping ambrosial bite and you’ll rethink that theory of sharing your small plates. You’ll all but forget that you’re paying $10 for what amounts to not quite one full peach. In fact, you may even decide it was well worth the price.
Of a lesser caliber, but still a tribute to stone fruit, is the farm toast found on Myriad’s appetizer offerings. Thick chewy slices of baguette are seared on the grill and slathered in a thick creamy layer of fromage blanc. The slices are topped with plump portions of sage-roasted plums, sprinkled with toasted pistachios and swirled in a balsamic reduction. Alongside the salacious peaches, I was hoping for more pop from the plums, but much of their flavor is overtaken by the overly generous smears of fromage. Still, the toast itself is outstanding, an easy brunch-to-lunch-to-dinner dish that takes artisanal toast to the next level of performance.
Myriad Gastropub, 2491 Mission, 415-525-4335.