Piccino Is Greater Than the Sum of Its Pizzas

Piccino's semolina gnocchi with roasted vegetables and black olive sauce.

Piccino shortly after the four-year-old restaurant's move to a giant Victorian-era stable in May, I waited four months to file this week's full-length restaurant review. Why the wait? Well, there was the matter of a self-imposed blackout. 

After last year's artisan-pizza glut (Zero Zero, Ragazza, Una Pizza Napoletana, etc.), my editor and I both burned out. No more pizza reviews for a year, he insisted, and I made it 10 months until a list of new pizzerias with good pedigrees reached critical length. Guardedly, I was allowed to begin paying visits.

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