Roll Play: Ebisu's/Hotei's Louisiana Hot Link

Sunset sushi joint Ebisu (1283 9th Ave.) is still under renovation and will re-open on May 7; in the meantime, you can cross the street and enjoy the sushi menu at the sister restaurant Hotei (1290 9th Ave.). The Louisiana Hot Link ($6.50) is a roll of deep-fried bonito fish, fresh ginger and garlic. How the fish that is normally used to make Japanese soup broth can magically taste like a pork product is a mystery, but it really does. It even makes one long for the not-yet-realized: Sausage sushi.

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