On the HBO series Looking, which was set in San Francisco, one of the characters put his heart and soul into opening a restaurant centered on the Portuguese dish of piri piri chicken. (If you look closely, you’ll recognize that his pop-up takes place inside Pungal on 24th Street in the Mission.)
Back in reality, Telmo Faria — formerly of Tacolicious — opened Uma Casa in Noe Valley in 2016, establishing a spot for excellent Portuguese food that’s a tad more upscale than Grubstake. Housed in the space that used to be Incanto, Uma Casa is romantic but singlemindedly food-driven, and piri piri chicken wings have been on the menu since its inception. But it turns out Faria had wanted to do something a bit more casual much earlier than that.
The restaurant scene on Valencia Street, as we’ve noted many times recently, is languishing badly, so it’s well-nigh time for some fresh blood. If you’ve ever had Uma Casa’s malagueta pepper sauce or the bacalhau gomes de sá, you know the heat is on.
Piri Pica, 590 Valencia St., piripica.com