Twister Donuts Will Keep the Sunset Quite Content

Allstar Donuts is gone from the Marina after almost three decades of never closing, but mercifully, San Francisco endured the week with net gain/loss of zero doughnut shops. Just off busy, commuter-heavy 19th Ave., full of impatient drivers who could really use a coffee and a French cruller right about now, is Twister Donuts.

[jump] Although they have the requisite maple bacon, which was sold out before I got there, this is no Dynamo. (That will either be a mild disappointment or a huge relief to denizens of the Central Sunset who like the neighborhood just the way it is.) What Twisted does have are raised donuts, such as Long Johns, apple fritters, and bear claws, plus the ever-so-slightly-cheaper cake doughnuts (sprinkled, powdered, crumbed and the like). The texture is good, not crumbly or overly heavy.

Croissants stand out, as well. That decorative jalapeño on the ham-and-cheese isn’t just so employees can tell which one is which; it’s one of several, making for a seriously hot pastry. Apart from coffee, hot chocolate and things like Odwallas, Twisted keeps things crisp and simple; with a few unadorned tables, the décor follows suit. Although they stay open until 7 p.m. every night, this is a morning-routine kind of place, not a would-be destination craving 45-minute lines on Sundays. They’re open Mondays (while both Dynamo locations, to my endless frustration, are not) and, at $12.50 for a dozen, the price is right. Twisted is a fine place to go to make somebody happy, starting with yourself.

Twisted Donuts, 1243 Noriega, 463-5467.

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