Dissatisfied in their quest to find the perfect bagel, Wise Sons‘ Evan and Ari Bloom, along with their friend and business partner, Leo Beckerman, decided to follow up their 24th Street deli — the “bubbe-ship” — with a bagelry on Fillmore Street. A second one in Larkspur followed, and now the former Artis Coffee space on Octavia Street in Hayes Valley has the third.
Something still eluded them, however. A foodstuff that combined the bready chew of the best-known Jewish American food of all with something meatier than even the most substantial smoked salmon. They found it in the bagel dawg.
In a world littered with puffy, second-tier hot dog buns comes this $5 beauty, a frank enrobed in the same yeasty dough that goes into the bagels. They’re only available at this newest Wise Sons location, under a pastry dome and on a tray whose wax-paper lining has a print of all the shibboleths of delicatessen: pickles, coffee, rugelach, and the like.
You can also find much of what made Wise Sons so well-regarded, like the Chinese Chicken Salad, the Hot Pastrami #19 toasted bagel sandwich, and the Friday Night Brisket & Gravy, along with a fixtures that look like the Blooms ransacked a defunct Googie diner on Fairfax Avenue in Los Angeles. There’s even an Amos Goldbaum mural depicting Hayes Valley before the northern extension of the Central Freeway came down, leaving the neighborhood to blossom years later. Nu, leaving that meeskait to hotseplots up would have been such a shanda. Go get a bagel.
Wise Sons, 537 Octavia St., wisesonsdeli.com