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Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Early Bird Special: The Broken Record

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 9:47 AM

click to enlarge Hoodies and ball caps allowed - JEN SISKA
  • Jen Siska
  • Hoodies and ball caps allowed
If you've ever wondered what the hell a gastropub is, get the ultimate schooling by reading SF Weekly food critic Matthew Stafford's review of the Broken Record (1166 Geneva at Edinburgh). Think bar food done by serious chefs who actually love the genre, without a whisker of the attitude that'd make you think twice about dressing in your favorite broken-in black skinnylegs and scuffed-up Vans. Stafford plows through house-smoked pigmeat sammies, alligator sausage, and what just might be the city's best mac 'n' cheese, in a room steeped in whiskies, ryes, and top-shelf bourbons. Taste every morsel of whoopee pie and toffee crack at www.sfweekly.com. For instant gratification, wet your whistle on the exquisitely seasoned preview after the jump.

Bar food as a cuisine isn't generally afforded the respect it deserves. Even in its humblest state it not only delivers enough calories, proteins, and roughage to absorb the toxins ingested over the course of an evening, it also provides a lusty and substantial counterbalance to the amorphous pleasures of alcohol. What could be more soul-satisfying than a beaker of beer and a freshly nuked frankfurter, or a dry martini and a packet of Planter's? Happily, the Broken Record's kitchen staff takes a much higher road. Chefs Katharine Zacher and Ryan Ostler, whose previous gigs have included Campton Place, Boulevard, and Quince, demonstrate their expertise with an impressive array of down-home booze-friendly snacks and platters that are as pleasing to the palate as they are satisfying to the belly.

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