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Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Eclectic Theme Dinners at Ame Promise a Taste of Authentic Fusion

Posted By on Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 10:03 AM

click to enlarge Ame in the St. Regis: Pan Asian, international -- whatever - M J C VIA FLICKR
  • m j c via Flickr
  • Ame in the St. Regis: Pan Asian, international -- whatever
Guidebooks refer to the cooking at Ame in the St. Regis Hotel (689 Mission at Third St.), one of the city's most highly regarded fine-dining spots (it garnered a Michelin star last year), as Pan Asian, international, eclectic, or fusion. The restaurant's own Web site describes it as New American, maybe the vaguest tag of all. The tendency to name is understandable, but chef/owner Hiro Sone's exquisite cooking defies categorization, so why bother?

Wednesdays in June, the restaurant is offering themed prix-fixe dinners sure to confound categorization even further. The first, tonight, is Japanese (Sone grew up there). First course: Kurobuta pork cooked shabu-shabu style and presented in a salad, followed by gomuku sushi (chirashi from Kansai province -- sushi rice topped with five ingredients, gomuku meaning five). The meal ends with sake ice cream parfait. Price is $55 including beverage parings, in this case two junmai ginjo sakes and a nigori. Considering the cost of a regular meal at superluxe Ame, that's a deal.

Future Wednesdays to look forward to: a Lebanese dinner on June 10, an ale dinner (featuring Dogfish craft beers) on June 17, and the one on June 24, organized around the Japanese hooch shochu. Talk about eclectic. For rezzies, call 284-4040.

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Kim Westerman

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