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Monday, October 12, 2009

City of Burgers: Fish & Farm Serves Up a Juicy Dilemma

Posted By on Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 12:13 PM

click to enlarge The lunchtime Juicy Lucy: Half the protein, pretty much all the flavor. - M. BRODY
  • M. Brody
  • The lunchtime Juicy Lucy: Half the protein, pretty much all the flavor.
Fish & Farm offers you a lady-or-the-tiger choice: Do you want to spring $8 at lunch for the takeaway Juicy Lucy -- two 2-ounce Niman Ranch burger patties sealed around a core of American cheese -- or $14 at dinner for the 7- to 8-ounce Niman Ranch cheeseburger, covered with melted white cheddar?

Otherwise the burgers are, as a hostess told us, close cousins. The same grilled onions, house-made pickles, secret sauce, and toasted Acme bun. At lunch, the burger comes with fresh potato salad, and you can get it to go or perch at a table in the Fish & Farm dining room (sans servers), part of the restaurant's American Box lunch service. At dinner, there are fries on the plate, you can add Hobbs bacon or a fried farm egg for an extra two bucks, wash it down with a cocktail, wine, or beer, and command anything else you'd like from Fish & Farm's menu -- maybe six oysters on the half shell ($15), mac 'n' cheese with ham hocks ($6), or a chocolate peanut butter mousse ($9) that comes with chocolate ice cream, salted caramel sauce, and peanut brittle.

click to enlarge cityofburgers.jpg
Having sampled both day and night burgers, SFoodie knows they're juicy indeed. The lunch version goes down a soft and succulent treat; but if you want a charred crust, you're better off with the bigger, nighttime version (and ask for it that way -- blackened). The choice is yours.

Fish & Farm 339 Taylor (at O'Farrell), 474-3474. American Box lunch takeway: Mon-Fri, 10:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Dinner: Tue-Wed, 5-10 p.m.; Thu-Sat, 5-11 p.m. Closed Sun-Mon.

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Meredith Brody

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