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Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Early Bird Special: Queen's Louisiana Po-Boy Café

Posted By on Tue, Dec 22, 2009 at 9:46 AM

click to enlarge The fried shrimp po'boy: A sandwich named desire. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • The fried shrimp po'boy: A sandwich named desire.
An early nibble from the Weekly's Wednesday food review.

Is Queen's Louisiana Po-Boy Café all that and a bag of Zapp's? The New Orleans outpost in the Portola District (3030 San Bruno at Dwight) knocks out up to a dozen fillings: catfish, crawfish, oysters. And while SF Weekly critic Matthew Stafford gives the po'boys a mostly enthusiastic fist bump this week, the real king of the crewe at Queen's is the gumbo, followed by the crisp-on-the-outside, steamy-on-the-inside hush puppies. Are they good enough to eclipse Stafford's memories of the Crescent City? Nah. But in a pinch, they'll do. Read all about it later today at Until then, prime your appetite with SFoodie's paragraph-long excerpt (after the jump).

Opened last month in a former mechanics' shop along an otherwise undistinguished stretch of San Bruno Avenue, Queen's delivers an immediate and palpable New Orleans vibe as soon as you walk in the door. Like any self-respecting Uptown soul shack, it's trim, tidy, and immaculate. Masks, beads, Rue Dauphine street signs, and Jazz Fest posters from years past decorate the robin's-egg beadboard walls. Lanterns in French Quarter wrought iron dangle over tables equipped with jars of powdered filé and bottles of Crystal hot sauce; big windows let in plenty of sunshine, and there's comfy sofa seating back toward the flatscreen TV. Boisterous zydeco booms from the stereo speakers, good smells waft from the open kitchen, and the warm, sweet-natured counter ladies create an infectious Mardi Gras spirit.

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