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Thursday, December 24, 2009

Hair of the Dog: Dosa's Vivid Homage to a Superstar of Cricket

Posted By on Thu, Dec 24, 2009 at 9:45 AM

click to enlarge Dosa's Frankie, named after West Indian cricketer Frank Worrell. - ARIO
  • ario
  • Dosa's Frankie, named after West Indian cricketer Frank Worrell.
Most of us have our preferred poison -- be it PBR, Pinot, or mixology's latest love child. For mornings after one or 10 too many, SFoodie offers Hair of the Dog, our weekly recommendation on where to run when a hangover calls. Hey, it happens to the best of us.

The synapse-jolting flavors of a Mumbai street-food-inspired brunch can rouse you out of your darkest hangover moment. Trust.

click to enlarge Pani puri: "Dripping, sloppy chaos."
  • Pani puri: "Dripping, sloppy chaos."
Start off at Dosa on Fillmore with a cozy window seat, an effervescent elderflower mimosa, and an order of pani puri: seven angelic, hollow bread globes -- each about the size of a golf ball -- with a quintet of accompaniments in ramekins and mini carafes. With a knife, you break a hole in the side of one bread ball to make a cradle, place a bit of potato chutney on the bottom, follow with a spoonful of spicy chickpeas and a sprinkle of mung bean sprouts for texture. You fill the rest of the hole with spicy-sour mint water and a squirt of sweet tamarind. As Dosa chef-owner Anjan Mitra once told us, "Dripping, sloppy chaos means you're doing it right!" Now for the fireworks: Stuff the entire ball in your mouth and chew, as eye-watering, sinus-clearing explosives jolt your senses. The blood's a-flowing, and you're ready for round two.

It's called Frankie. Named for star West Indian cricketer Frank Worrell, the likes of this portable sandwich can be found at street carts and Tibbs Frankie franchises all over Mumbai. Often called the Indian burrito, Frankie's pliant, egg-washed, thick roti wrapping doesn't compare at all to a tortilla. Dosa's prawn homage envelops chunks of shrimp in a thick sauce, scintillating with cumin, coriander, chili, mustard seed, and a hint of coconut milk.

Spicy curry wrapped in warm rolled bread -- and even warmer light streaming in through the windows -- can take you to another place, especially with a smooth, coriander-flavored Traquair Jacobite ale to nudge you. Why quit when you've come this far?

Dosa on Fillmore 1700 Fillmore (at Post), 441-3672

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Carolyn Alburger


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