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Tuesday, January 26, 2010

SFoodie's 92: Quesadilla from Rico Pan

Posted By on Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 11:07 AM

click to enlarge Salvadoran quesadilla: cheesebread meats cake
  • Salvadoran quesadilla: cheesebread meats cake
As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here. Details after the jump.

No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan

There are dozens of Mexican and Salvadoran bakeries in the Mission, most of them the size of your parents' pantry and not quite as well-stocked. Two-and-a-half-year-old Rico Pan, on the corner of Mission and Highland, operates on a different scale. Cleaner, newer, more brightly lit, its cases are filled with maize-colored cookies, fruit-filled turnovers, breads, cakes, and slabs of caramelized banana-topped bread pudding (the last: bombastically rich). In the afternoons, there's a steady traffic of schoolkids, some picking out a pastel de piña for a snack, others stuffing a bag with banana leaf-wrapped tamales for family dinner.

Once you've had your look around the room, zero in the corner where the two cases meet for a tray of gold cakes, sprinkled with sesame seeds, each the size of a saucer and an inch thick. If you think a quesadilla is always a greasy, Jack-filled flour tortilla, you need to taste the Salvadoran version. When they're still warm from the oven (say, late morning), Rico Pan's quesadillas are buttery enough to crisp around the edges, and larded with pockets of soft, barely tangy cheese. There's no convincing yourself a quesadilla is a dainty snack, but the sweetness doesn't overpower, tempered as it is by the toasted sesame seeds on top. One last tip: If the quesadilla has been sitting around for a few hours, resist devouring the cake in the shop ― take it home to rewarm in the microwave for a few seconds. If the quesadilla is fresh, the odds of it making it 20 yards past Rico Pan's door are 50 to 1.
Rico Pan 3717 Mission (at Leese ― take the 14/49 to Bernal Heights, and get off two stops after it swings round the bend), 550-1565

Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot

No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson

No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush

No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet

No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante

No. 86: Tamales from All-Star

No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito

No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc

No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe

No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service

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Jonathan Kauffman


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