When the Potrero branch of John Campbell's Irish Bakery opened last week, it brought along the Belfast bap, premade, wrapped in paper, and loaded into the pastry case (ask to have it nuked). The English food writer Elizabeth David called the bap the breakfast roll of Scotland. No surprise that it jumped to Northern Ireland, though its presence in the sunny Potrero lowlands, amid the carb exclusion zone around World Gym and the Design Center, might be.Stacked up on layers of sharp cheddar, unsmoky, fat-veined Irish bacon, and a brown membrane of egg, Jimmy Dean-size links of Irish black sausage serve as the thing's heart. "Black," in this context, is the euphemism for "blood" ― it registers here as faintly tangy, with the crumbly texture of Spanish chorizos.
Away from the fog of the original Campbell's on Geary (and the Guinness fog of the Blarney Stone next door), the Belfast bap seems quaint. Then again, so does a cobblestone.
John Campbell's Irish Bakery 300 De Haro (at 16th St.), Ste. 342/340, 621-2212.
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