Almost a year after it opened in an unlikely slot between Enrico's pee-fragrant sidewalk terrace and the tourist-covered stairs on Kearny above Broadway, Naked Lunch is still putting out food of rare polish. Ian Begg's foie-gras torchon and duck prosciutto creation might be the city's most adult sandwich (and at $15, its most expensive), in a neighborhood that knows from adult. But while the sandwiches get the kind of billing reserved for the $20 lap dance at nearby Centerfolds, it's Begg's restaurant-ready salads that show off his skills, the way a brass pole and and an uplit stage shows off an exotic dancer's.Today's menu shows a variation on the summer-bean matrix ― grilled padron peppers, which sound like an inspired addition. Order a double portion.
Naked Lunch Enrico's Annex, 504 Broadway (at Kearny), 577-4951.
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