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Friday, July 30, 2010

Lers Ros' Fried Rabbit: Buffalo By Way of Bangkok

Posted By on Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 4:00 PM

click to enlarge Lers Ros' rabbit, a satanic take on the hot wing. - ANDREW SIMMONS
  • Andrew Simmons
  • Lers Ros' rabbit, a satanic take on the hot wing.
It wasn't until after we raked up the last morsels that we realized our dinner at Lers Ros had consisted almost entirely of fried dishes. With the exception of succulent pork belly cubes, everything we'd ordered had come encased in the kind of crunch only deep-fryers bestow: catfish salad, a whole strapping tilapia, and rabbit, all accompanied by sauces and dressings tending toward the ruddy, tear-inducing side of the spice spectrum.

While each item left us happy and thirsty, our throats parched from grease, salt, and chiles, the rabbit appetizer ($8.25) somehow managed to stand out: small curls of juicy pink meat clumped around tiny bones that had clearly seen the business end of a heavy-duty cleaver. Chicken wings came to mind ― albeit somewhat satanic ones, the pieces of rabbit covered in browned garlic confetti, flanked by a saucer of what looked and tasted suspiciously like Frank's RedHot by way of Bangkok. Instead of celery and carrot sticks, a few fat discs of cooling cucumber fanned out along the edge of the plate.

Prefer frog legs or quail? You can get them all fried and sauced the same way, a well-textured trio of fried, vaguely chickeny bits you won't find in the Michael Mina cookbook.

Lers Ros: 730 Larkin (at Ellis), 931-6917.

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Andrew Simmons


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