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Wednesday, August 18, 2010

The Crepe House's Florentine

Posted By on Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 7:41 AM

click to enlarge The Florentine, filled with cheddar, onions, spinach, and cottage cheese ($7.95). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • The Florentine, filled with cheddar, onions, spinach, and cottage cheese ($7.95).
Wednesday, August 18, 2010

click to enlarge JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
Crepes are the pleated Dockers of the café universe: not cool, but comfortable enough to make you overlook the fact, as long as nobody you know sees you with them.

At the month-old Crepe House on Valencia ― the third in Bashar Haddadin's minichain, all half-timbered walls and herringbone brickwork ― the crepes are less like lacy, sugar-strewn street snacks you recall from backpack idylls of Paris, and more like sturdy, blintzlike membranes.

Euro-classy as it sounds, the Florentine, well, isn't. But its filling of wilted spinach, ropy orange cheddar, and big-curd cottage cheese ― cottage cheese! ― is totally absorbing. I'm guessing I polished one off yesterday in, like, two minutes, before eating every one of my home fries. Quick enough to get out before anyone I know saw me. I think.

The Crepe House: 1132 Valencia (at 23rd St.), 285-2423.

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