Revising the diner canon is tricky business. Cut and paste the original with too many pristine ingredients using too polished a hand, and it yields something fatally removed from the lunch counter. But perform too little editing, and the results can lack the spark of reinvention.
That latter possibility bedeviled the fish and chips yesterday at Citizen's Band, the new-school Folsom Street diner that just launched daytime service. Ingredients and technique? Both solid. Hunks of Pacific rock cod skived into fierce flakes under tectonic plates of beer batter with the right airy lift, next to fries with the telltale firmness of ones given a preliminary blanching in hot oil. Co-owner Chris Beerman's sauces are Citizen's Band's best asset, and the sticky, malt-vinegar-infused aioli that zigzagged the fish like glaze on a cruller raised the glimmer of a spark.
Citizen's Band: 1198 Folsom (at Eighth St.), 556-4901.