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Thursday, September 9, 2010

We Confess: Grapes On a Plate Seduced Us

Posted By on Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 4:25 PM

click to enlarge Bronx grapes at Camino. All they needed? A shirtless man. - CARINA OST
  • Carina Ost
  • Bronx grapes at Camino. All they needed? A shirtless man.
Dessert is a meal's final punctuation. Not surprisingly, Bay Area chefs tend to take a simple approach, devising the single perfect period to bring things to a close ― the exquisitely ripe peach or pear served on a plate at Chez Panisse has become infamous. Fruit can be sliced, but even that is considered messing with perfection. A few years ago, San Francisco icon Zuni Cafe got a lot of attention for serving an $8 nectarine. Alone. On a plate.

We weren't sure where we stood on the $8 nectarine, but a recent trip to Oakland restaurant Camino put us in fruit's corner. After a delicious multicourse meal, it was the Bronx grapes from Lagier Ranches that hit the spot. The $4 dessert with nothing more than grapes on a dish, and it was perfect. We imagined what a wine made from them would taste like. We felt the perfect snap of skin on our tongue ― it elicited scandalous thoughts (as all good desserts should). Taste and complexity: It was all there. The only thing missing was the shirtless man to peel them and feed us, fanning us with palm fronds.

Read more from Carina Ost at Mission Fruition. Follow us on Twitter at @sfoodie.

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Carina Ost


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