Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

This Week's Review: Una Pizza Napoletana

Posted By on Wed, Nov 24, 2010 at 1:55 PM

click to enlarge It all boils down to this. - LARA HATA
  • Lara Hata
  • It all boils down to this.

This week I reviewed Una Pizza Napolitana, where owner and sole cook Anthony Mangieri practices a singular devotion to making pizza, and has developed a fervid following for it. (Read my interview with Mangieri here.) We have entered the era of the artisan as romantic hero. Artists and rock stars still hold an allure for the romantically predisposed. But so do the baker who cultures his own wild yeasts and stokes his own oven, the chocolate makers who grind their beans by hand and wrap their own bars, and the pickle maker who refuses to touch a drop of vinegar. More and more, we pay homage to the way these artisans flout the industrialized-food norm and the so-called extreme measures (i.e., the steps to make something before the process was mechanized) called for by their passion for their craft. What used to be considered someone's livelihood a few generations ago is now someone's artistic vision.

And so Mangieri became a romantic hero in New York; and when the pizzaiolo moved

out west this year, that status transferred to the Bay Area, where we've

been practicing the cult of the farmer/forager/artisan longer than

anyone else. To his credit, though, the guy just wants to make the best

pizza he can. And I surprised myself by agreeing with him: The results of his pure-hearted passion are evident. Go get yourself in line.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Follow me at @JonKauffman.

  • Pin It

Tags: , , , ,

About The Author

Jonathan Kauffman

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • Third Eye Blind @ The Masonic
    Third Eye Blind performed on Sunday, July 26 at The Masonic to a sold out show with the support of Dashboard Confessional & Ex-Cops. Photographs by Christopher Victorio.
  • Morrissey @ San Jose Events Center
    The last stop for Morrissey serenaded the sold out crowd during his only Northern California date on Saturday, July 25 at the San Jose Events Center. Photographs by Christopher Victorio.