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Tuesday, March 15, 2011

No. 45: Los Muertos at Gitane

Posted By on Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 5:33 PM

click to enlarge Gitane's Los Muertos, $10, which incorporates elements of the Paloma with those of a margarita. - LOU BUSTAMANTE
  • Lou Bustamante
  • Gitane's Los Muertos, $10, which incorporates elements of the Paloma with those of a margarita.

SFoodie's countdown of our 92 favorite things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

click to enlarge sf_92.jpg

Cocktails fall into two categories. In the first are drinks with exciting flavors and maybe a novelty of some kind ― often delicious, usually fun, they wear on the palate the more you sip. Like a whole meal of pork belly, they're too much of a good thing.

The second are those we could drink all night, the cocktail equivalent of session beers. They're the drinks that sneak up on you like a pop hook, and bring you back for more all night. Or, to paraphrase St. George Spirits distiller Lance Winters, cocktails you could drink the shit out of. We use a different word: dangerous.

For us, Gitane's Los Muertos falls into the latter category. A mashup of the classic Paloma (usually grapefruit soda and tequila) and a margarita, Los Muertos' mix of blanco tequila, sweet vermouth, house-made grapefruit marmalade, and fresh lime juice produces something remarkably drinkable that gets tastier the more you drink. The sweet vermouth ― an odd choice at first glance ― integrates amazingly well, its herbaceous aromas and spiced sweetness complementing the citrus and vegetal notes of the tequila.

And that name, Los Muertos, which translates as "the departed"? Think of it as the number of drinks you'll kill off without thinking twice.

Gitane: 6 Claude (at Bush), 788-6686.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño

91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu

90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha

89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar

88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline

87: Outerlands' levain bread

86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt

85: Gyro King's spinach pie

84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi

83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu

82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tarts

81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée

80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle

79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña

78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe

77: Cheesecake from Zanze's

76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel

75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra

74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch

73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup

72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk

71: Boudin noir at Cafe Bastille

70: Blackstrap molasses gingerbread at Lotta's Bakery

69: Plow's crispy potatoes

68: Prospect's Catcher in the Rye

67: Pork banh mi from Little Vietnam Cafe

66: Nakaochi at Ippuku

65: Sidekick's chocolate spritzer

64: Farmhouse Culture's horseradish-leek sauerkraut

63: Destination Baking Co.'s challah

62: Cotogna's roasted carrots

61: Hard Knox Cafe's chicken and waffles

60: The Rebel Within from Tell Tale Preserve Co.

59: The Slanted Door's Whiskey Cocktail

58: Carnitas burrito from Taqueria San Francisco

57: Sakura mochi from Benkyodo

56: Birria at Gallardos

55: BBQ pork skewers at Fil-Am Cuisine

54: JapaCurry's katsu curry

53: Vegan flan at Gracias Madre

52: Cinderella Bakery's pelmeni

51: Locavore's maple andouille sausage

50: Lumpia from Hapa SF

49: Moonlight Brewing's Reality Czeck

48: Filetti pizza at Una Pizza Napoletana

47: Pupusas revueltas at La Santaneca

46: Khoresht ghaymeh at Maykadeh

Lou Bustamante tweets at @thevillagedrunk. Follow SFoodie at @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.

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