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Thursday, June 9, 2011

Addiction, Tradition, and Oyster Shells: Today in Great Food Writing

Posted By on Thu, Jun 9, 2011 at 7:30 AM

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Today's notes on national stories, local trends, random tastes, and other bycatch dredged up from the food media.

Lot of great writing out there this week:

The feature in this week's New York Times dining section profiles young cooks and entrepreneurs taking over the family business -- dim sum parlors, Romanian butcher shops, and the reportedly awesome Xi'an Famous Foods. Subverting the idea that American-educated children are destined for greater things (aka office jobs), the new blood is modernizing the look and feel of each restaurant -- and opening it up to new audiences -- without giving up tradition. More, please.

The story whipping around Twitter is the Chicago Tribune's profile of Brandon Baltzley, a 28-year old chef with a burning passion for food and an out-of-control addition to cocaine and alcohol. The reporter takes a taxi ride with the chef as he checks himself into rehab, a week after blowing his shot at a big new restaurant. It's one of the best-written profiles I've read this year.

And Gilt Taste just posted an odd, hauntingly sweet comic about oysters.

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Follow me at @JonKauffman.

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Jonathan Kauffman


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