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Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Tacko, the WASPiest Taco Shop in Town (Maybe Even the Country)

Posted By on Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:15 AM

click to enlarge The Nantucket-style Baja taco from Tacko. Ahoy, mate! (Do Nantucketers say that?) - KIMBERLY SANDIE
  • Kimberly Sandie
  • The Nantucket-style Baja taco from Tacko. Ahoy, mate! (Do Nantucketers say that?)

People love the idea of comfortable authenticity, exploring another culture without the prickle of disorientation. Fancy banh mi, served in restaurants where the sandwich makers don't bark at you and you're not afraid to touch the tables. Mexican restaurants with big, frothy margaritas and lots of free chips, maybe even a waitress with a faint Spanish lilt. Epcot Center. Shenzen Window of the World


So the moment I heard of Tacko, I couldn't resist visiting. In fact, it's the subject of this week's full-length restaurant review. See, Tacko dispenses with the illusion of comfortable authenticity. Nick Fasanella's new taco shop is decorated like a Nantucket seafood shack, with absolutely no signifiers of Mexican-ness besides the menu board. In an era of kalbi tacos and sisig tacos, why shouldn't Tacko proclaim its roots? 

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Jonathan Kauffman

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