Despite our proximity to Los Angeles, whose Thai restaurants are the best in the Americas, San Francisco's history with Thai restaurants is a spotty one. Little restaurants spring up, impress the locals, then graduate up to fancier rooms, dumbing down and sweetening up their food as the years go by. Tom Silargorn, is determined not to let that happen. Though he has made small and subtle changes to the new Hayes Valley branch of Lers Ros -- the subject of the Weekly's full-length restaurant review this week
-- to attract a different clientele than the one at his Tenderloin branch, I was happy to find that the food at LR2 is as full of acid and spice and wild aromas as at the original.
One of the new additions: a thoughtful, affordably priced wine list, a one-page summary of the current thinking about which wines go best with Thai food. Seeing as how Lers Ros's waiters aren't yet trained to sell from it, the Chronicle's 2007 guide to pairing wine with Thai food is required reading
before you start choosing between grüners and gamays for your meal.