Until moving to Chicago last year, chef Roger Feely of Soul Cocina enlivened San Francisco palates with his world-wise cooking and helped to unite a community of small-scale food carts, eaters, and music appreciators in the Mission and beyond. Extensive international travels as well as time served in the kitchens of spots like Kitchenette and Citizen Cake have helped create a chef as nimble and confident in sweets as he is in savories, and with micro-regional specialties of lands within India, Thailand, and Mexico.
His absence is now felt in a dissipation of much of that scene, but fortunately his love of the area has ensured Feely's return visits. He'll occupy the kitchen at La Victoria, his last home-base before his departure, on Saturday (January 28) to cook up a four-course meal that will make us miss him more.
Feely has separate menus for vegans and omnivores. Highlights of the former include a winter vegetable soup with chile morita and sweet potato scallion fritters and cactus sopes with cumin roasted purple potatoes, mole rojo, and pickled vegetables. Omnivores will eat dishes such as ceviche with fried platano, avocado, and radish leaf salsa verde and birria de chivo (goat) with handmade tortillas.
Vegans pay $29, while omnivores kick in $39. Secure tickets for 6 p.m. or 8 p.m. seatings via Eventbrite.