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Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Chocolate and Spirits: Coco Delice Boozes It Up

Posted By on Wed, Mar 7, 2012 at 10:00 AM

click to enlarge BEN NARASIN
  • Ben Narasin
Coco Délice has embraced alcohol. The Emeryville based chocolatier, long a purveyor of premium bon bons in classic French style, has recently added adult-beverages to its fillings.

For their newest additions, the chocolate shop tapped Berkeley-based Bison Organic
Brewing. The result: Bison Black Magic Chocolates, thick ganache covered in dark chocolate couverture and lined up neatly in a box. They're made with
Bison Organic Beer, which is "actually wort from their beer, which is a byproduct of the fermentation of hops," Matt Levine, Business Development Manager for Coco Délice tells us.

Coco Delice is also featuring a Bourbon Pecan Truffle, but we haven't had a chance to try that one yet. Here's our take on what we have sampled in their alcohol-added line:

Bison Black Magic Chocolates
Thick. Lush. Rich without any obvious homage to the beer inside. Just a thick, dark, grown-up pudding-like ganache filling that pleases and leaves a lightly dusty cacao at the end.

Cognac Truffles (Pictured)
Dense, lush chocolate truffle flavor in a nicely sized ball with very modest notes from the cognac. Light and not remotely obvious. The cognac flavor is more a gentle vapor in the background and a delicacy on the finish than a noticeable presence.

Sonoma Champagne Truffle
The initial flavor is a light sweetness on the tongue from the sweet dusting. The truffle filling itself offers tiny tips of cherry and a lightness that plays well. That said, we feel obliged to point out to the makers, particularly as they pay such homage to the French in their own description of their style, that there is no such thing as Champagne from Sonoma.

Overall, the chocolates were all very good, but for the promotion of the alcoholic-enhancement we'd like just a bit more assertiveness from the added ingredient. We're not looking for super market candy covered cherries here, just enough to tell us what's within beyond just the name.

Contact Ben Narisin at . Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodieand like us on Facebook.

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