Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

State Bird Provisions' Plates May Be Tiny, But They're Mighty Exciting

Posted By on Wed, Mar 7, 2012 at 7:35 AM

click to enlarge One of the carts rolling around State Bird Provisions. - LARA HATA
  • Lara Hata
  • One of the carts rolling around State Bird Provisions.

Considering the shrinking of the entrée that has taken place over the past two decades, the American dim sum that Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski are serving at State Bird Provisions -- the subject of this week's full-length restaurant review in the paper -- seems inevitable. Especially in a city where many of us yum cha as often as we do brunch.

The surprise of the two-month-old restaurant is that the dim sum format -- which still isn't kink-free, making you better appreciate the service at Yank Sing and Koi Palace -- isn't the most entrancing thing about the restaurant. Brioza and Krasinski's cooking is. 


The two chefs (he handles savory, she sweet) are combining improbable flavors -- potato chips with orange-scented steelhead roe and horseradish crème fraîche, chocolate-black-sesame crunch with mandarin jam -- so thoughtfully that it's clear they've choreographed how each bite evolves in the mouth. As a restaurant, State Bird Provisions is still wobbly. As chefs, though, Brioza and Krasinski are already performing acrobatic feats.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.
Follow me at @JonKauffman.

  • Pin It

Tags: , , , , ,

About The Author

Jonathan Kauffman

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • 24th Annual Autumn Moon Festival
    Crowds gathered September 6-7 for the 24th Annual Autumn Moon Festival in Chinatown. Visitors enjoyed arts, crafts, cultural exhibits, food and a dog fashion show. Photographs by Dhoryan Rizo.
  • Felton: Touring the Redwoods
    Blue skies meet redwood canopies in the mountain town of Felton, located just north of Santa Cruz on Highway 9. Once a bustling logging community, the town is now a mix of mellow locals and serene wilderness. Visitors can enjoy the redwoods in nearby Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park and splash in swimming holes in the San Lorenzo River. For a bite to eat stop by Rocky’s Cafe for fruit-laden pancakes, barbeque at the Cowboy Bar & Grill and poolside burgers at the Trout Farm Inn. Other stops worth checking out include Roaring Camp Railroads, the Mount Hermon zip line tour, and the educational Bigfoot Discovery Museum. For beer or cocktails a log cabin bar has you covered.