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Friday, April 6, 2012

Number 28: Local Mission Eatery's Asparagus-Egg Sandwich

Posted By on Fri, Apr 6, 2012 at 10:45 AM

click to enlarge The asparagus and egg sandwich at Local Mission Eatery - IANN IVY
  • Iann Ivy
  • The asparagus and egg sandwich at Local Mission Eatery

SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition


click to enlarge SFoodie_50_2012_logo_thumb_200x200.jpg

The Germans, of course, have a word for one of SFoodie's favorite times of year: Spargelzeit, or asparagus season. The appearance of asparagus is the moment when going to the farmers' market begins to seem like an adventure again, and when all we can think of is eating things that taste like they have just shot out of a bed of loam, unabashedly vegetal.

At Local: Mission Eatery, spargelzeit means the return of one of Jake Des Voignes' signature brunch-lunch dishes, an open-faced sandwich topped with poached eggs and asparagus from Zuckerman's Farm. It's the culinary equivalent of framing spring's first vegetable in a diamond bracelet.

Pools of liquid gold, thick and unctuous, hide in the centers of the smooth, cloud-white eggs, awaiting a slice of the knife to gild the asparagus and seep into the toasted slice of Shauna Des Voignes' buttery brioche. A poached egg on its own is opulent, it's still not enough for the chef. The cooks finish the dish by using a charged siphon to spray a cloud of Meyer lemon mousseline -- a tart Hollandaise sauce "lightened" up with cream -- over the eggs, asparagus, and toast. It's the kind of treatment asparagus deserves, a one-percenter-tasting dish with a $10 price.

Local: Mission Eatery: 3111 24th St. (at Folsom), 655-3422.

Other favorites in this series:

29: Memphis Minnie's 18-hour brisket

30: Custard buns from City View

31: Mission Chinese Food's kung pao pastrami

32: Panisse frites from Frances

33: Izakaya Yuzuki's chawanmushi

34: Fatted Calf's chorizo

35: Silvanas from House of Silvanas

36: Linden Street Brewery's black lager

37: Aged oolongs from Red Blossom Tea Company

38: Broken Record's crawfish grits

39: Cebiche mixto from La Mar 

40: Nutella-hazelnut hand pie from Black Jet Baking Co.
41: Fifth Floor's burger
42: Perbacco's agnolotti dal plin
43: Iced coffee from Sightglass
44: Cypress Grove's Purple Haze Chevre
45: Lechon from Tastebuds Cuisine
46: Duck with beets from AQ
47: Tai nigiri at ICHI Sushi
48: Fish with explosive chiles from Spices! 
49: Baker & Banker Bakery's blueberry cream cheese muffin
50: Kufta tajine from Cafe Zitouna

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Follow me at @JonKauffman.

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Jonathan Kauffman

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