Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Monday, July 30, 2012

Patrick Lee Wants to Fry You Anything at Batter Up

Posted By on Mon, Jul 30, 2012 at 7:30 AM

click to enlarge Does it really matter what's inside? - ALEX HOCHMAN
  • Alex Hochman
  • Does it really matter what's inside?

A graffiti-laden sliding window masked by a cold, windy Muni stop in the Excelsior District seems an odd spot for the city's lone dive specializing in Texas State Fair "cuisine." Odder still, its owner, Patrick Lee, is a San Francisco-bred dot-com escapee whose only prior restaurant experience consisted of busing tables at his aunt's pizza parlor downtown. Yet every day, Lee mans his minuscule space (only one person can fit at a time) and, utilizing a small deep-fryer no different than those found on the kitchen counters of many an ambitious home cook, doles out a dizzying array of battered dogs, sausages, cheese sticks, and mass-market sweets.

You can't visit Batter Up without trying a classic corn dog ($3.75). Lee uses Evergood all-beef frankfurters, fried in a thick blanket of barely crunchy, faintly sweet cornmeal. The dog managed to stay snappy despite a generous coating. Even better was a Schwarz smoked bratwurst, its more intense flavor truly able to stand up to the batter. Like a pedigreed chef, Lee refused to divulge any details about the secret recipe for his mixture.

click to enlarge Patrick Lee - ALEX HOCHMAN
  • Alex Hochman
  • Patrick Lee
Vegetarians, don't fret! Batter Up has a selection of "cheese dogs," ($3) essentially rectangular cubes of cheese given a whirl in the same batter and hot oil. We sampled the cheddar version and liked the crispy-gooey contrast, even if the cheese itself was too mild to stand out.

Subscribing to the "fry anything and it will taste better" Longhorn mentality, Lee offers eight fried dessert options, including Twinkies, Oreos, and Snickers. Ever the peanut butter cup junkies, we opted for a Reese's ($2) that got so drowned, we really couldn't taste the candy save for a small hit of peanut butter near the final bite.

A return is definitely in order to tackle the triple play, three different sausages crammed on a stick before given a dip. Oh, and if you're thinking about using Corn Dog Window as the name for your college band, you were beat by SF Weekly's very own Alan Scherstuhl, who's rumored to have trademarked it.
Follow us on Twitter at @sfoodie, follow Alex Hochman at @urbanstomach, and like us on Facebook
  • Pin It

Tags: , , , , ,

About The Author

Alex Hochman


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • Phish at the Bill Graham Auditorium
    Phish is in the midst of a block of sold out shows at the Bill Graham Civic Auditorium (October 27-29). The Monday night concert featured a rare first set opener of “Walfredo” with the band members switching instruments for the song. The evening’s highlights included John Fishman and his iconic vacuum cleaner solo and favorites such as Chalk Dust Torture, Slave to the Traffic Light, Axilla, Rift, 2001 Space Odyssey, and Maze. The show also featured Phish’s debut of a, seemingly impromptu, version of “Take Me Out to the Ballgame” to with roaring approval of the, singing along, crowd. With Game 6 being tonight, partying Phish fans will join Giants fans in Civic Center Plaza where there will be a World Series viewing party on a large screen set up by the City. Photography by Jamie Soja.
  • The 4th Annual Masquerotica 2014 - NSFW
    The theme this year was Carnaval Mystique for the 4th Annual Masquerotica at The Factory. Attendees were entertained by strip dance, trapeze, and live music. Photographs by Calibree Photography.