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Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Pancakes Are for Dinner at State Bird Provisions

Posted By on Wed, Aug 8, 2012 at 8:30 AM

click to enlarge Sweet corn and garlic chive short stack with Mt. Tam goat cheese. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • Sweet corn and garlic chive short stack with Mt. Tam goat cheese.

Since it opened last December, State Bird Provisions has gotten a lot of acclaim and attention for dishes like the signature fried quail (the California state bird, hence the name) and for serving many dishes dim sum-style, with passed trays and carts. When it opened, an early favorite was the sourdough pancake with sauerkraut and ricotta; now, there's a whole savory pancake selection on the menu.

The menu changes frequently but there are currently three pancake options ($7-12). We love the little air pockets that form inside the sweet corn and garlic chive short stack, which features generous wedges of Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam, a triple cream goat cheese, and a swirl of sweet corn puree on the plate. At the moment, there's also a yeasted sesame pancake with local boquerones and creme fraiche, and a ginger and scallion pancake with Mendocino sea urchin and soy-lime sauce.

Since these pancakes are stuffed, they're heartier than they appear when they land on the table. It's easy to get carried away, but that's also a big part of the fun of dining at State Bird Provisions.

Pancakes will never be considered just for breakfast again.

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Tamara Palmer

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