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Monday, October 1, 2012

In Which Our Italian Sub Craving Takes Us to Molinari's

Posted By on Mon, Oct 1, 2012 at 2:50 PM

click to enlarge ANNA ROTH
  • Anna Roth

If you're a food person, restaurants are right up there with friends as the hardest things to leave behind when you move. I've been in San Francisco for a few months now, just enough time to develop a serious craving for the glorious Godmother sandwich from Bay Cities Deli in Santa Monica. It's an Italian sub at its finest, and in search of a satisfying NorCal substitute I headed to Molinari Delicatessen in North Beach, which has been owned and operated by the Molinari family for more than 100 years.

See also:

- First Bite at Mau: Two Inventive Takes on the Bahn Mi

- Happy Hour: Cheap Beer and a Moroccan Lamb Sandwich at L'Acajou

- The Corner Store's Fried Green Tomato Sandwich Makes a Cal-Southern Spectacle

It fit the bill in terms of atmosphere. The small room has creaky wooden floors, an impressive display case of cured meats (most done in-house), and tall shelves of imported Italian products. Take a number, select your bread from the clear plastic box near the back, and decide which sandwich to order.

click to enlarge ANNA ROTH
  • Anna Roth

I ordered the Molinari Special ($7), which is your basic Italian cold cut combo, piled high with Molinari salami, mortadella, and other sliced meats. The bread I chose was on the crusty side, which meant that the meat threatened to slide out with every bite -- especially since the sandwich was lubricated with so much mayo and mustard. It was a fine sub, but it wasn't anything special.

Next time I'll try the South Beach Special ($9.50), with roasted turkey, provolone, sun dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, and basil garlic spread - even better, maybe I'll see if they can put the basil-garlic spread on the Molinari Special.

Meanwhile, where else in S.F. should I go to get a great Italian sub?

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About The Author

Anna Roth

Anna Roth

Anna Roth is SF Weekly's former Food & Drink Editor and author of West Coast Road Eats: The Best Road Food From San Diego to the Canadian Border.


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