Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Friday, January 4, 2013

Drink of the Week: The Oaxacan Cross at Lolinda

Posted By on Fri, Jan 4, 2013 at 11:20 AM

click to enlarge LOU BUSTAMANTE
  • Lou Bustamante
When you spend enough time going to bars, talking to bartenders, and trying their drinks, you start to develop a mental list of people to keep an eye on. Having seen Chris Lane behind the bar at Flora, Heaven's Dog, Tradition, and Wo Hing, there was little doubt the low-key, gracious, and talented barman could run a great show. So when I heard that Chris Lane had taken over the bar at Lolinda from Lane Ford, the Argentine-style grill from the team behind Delarosa and Beretta, I had to hurry in.

See Also:

- Pairing Beer with Argentinean Cuisine at Lolinda

- Drink of the Week: Drink #7 at Chambers

- Drink of the Week: Puttin' on the Bix

click to enlarge Lolinda bar manager Chris Lane - LOU BUSTAMANTE
  • Lou Bustamante
  • Lolinda bar manager Chris Lane

The menu is still transitioning in, but most of the new cocktails go live this week. With the demand for cocktails with dinner unexpectedly high, Chris Lane decided to make some tweaks. There is a definite shift to less spirit-driven, lighter options, and recipes that streamline the process to decrease wait times. He is launching with five original cocktails, keeping the classics, and planning on adding a rotating drink that showcases a recipe from other bartenders.

All five of the originals are solid, like the Lone Palm ($10, house spiced rum, lime, grapefruit, honey, bitters) that is an ode to the Mission bar, the fall spiced Rock n Rolla ($10, bourbon, apple, lemon, maple, allspice, bitters, nutmeg), and a drink I wish I could finish every meal with, The Devil's Backbone ($10, rye whiskey, Lagavulin scotch whisky, Averna amaro, Gran Classico, Angostura bitters, Orange bitters, orange peel), that really needed a big chair and a fireplace.

But the one drink that I just could have easily enjoyed all night was The Oaxacan Cross ($10, mezcal, ruby port, lime, pineapple, ginger, maraschino, orange peel), which was juicy yet a fascinating mix of ingredients. The mezcal and maraschino playing a culinary bout of capoeira, the Brazilian dance-like martial art, stepping in with a little smoke here, a kick of herbaceousness there, all riding a rhythm.

Inspired by Charles H. Baker's "The Gentlemen's Companion" travelogue, Chris Lane created the drink by nudging the ingredients of two drinks together. "The Oaxacan Cross is a basically a mash up between an El Morocco (cognac, pineapple, port, lime, curaçao, grenadine) and a Diablo (tequila, lime, ginger, cassis)," explained Chris Lane. The drink requires a little bit of bartending and a little bit of DJing, but it's all thumping groove in a glass.

The Oaxacan Cross

2 oz. Mezcal (Chris recommends San Juan Del Rio)

¾ oz. Pineapple juice

½ oz. Lemon juice

½ oz. Ruby port

½ oz. Luxardo maraschino

¼ oz. Ginger solution*

Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a Collins glass with fresh ice. Garnish with orange peel.

*Ginger solution: blend one-part simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water) with two parts ginger, strain.

Lolinda, 2518 Mission (at 21st), 550-6970

  • Pin It

Tags: , , , ,


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • 24th Annual Autumn Moon Festival
    Crowds gathered September 6-7 for the 24th Annual Autumn Moon Festival in Chinatown. Visitors enjoyed arts, crafts, cultural exhibits, food and a dog fashion show. Photographs by Dhoryan Rizo.
  • Felton: Touring the Redwoods
    Blue skies meet redwood canopies in the mountain town of Felton, located just north of Santa Cruz on Highway 9. Once a bustling logging community, the town is now a mix of mellow locals and serene wilderness. Visitors can enjoy the redwoods in nearby Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park and splash in swimming holes in the San Lorenzo River. For a bite to eat stop by Rocky’s Cafe for fruit-laden pancakes, barbeque at the Cowboy Bar & Grill and poolside burgers at the Trout Farm Inn. Other stops worth checking out include Roaring Camp Railroads, the Mount Hermon zip line tour, and the educational Bigfoot Discovery Museum. For beer or cocktails a log cabin bar has you covered.