All too often, "Asian-fusion" reminds people of some deafening restaurant from the 90s where nobody ate anything because they were all doing blow in the bathroom. Fused, Chef Christopher Williams' new weekend morning pop-up at the House of Thai in the Tenderloin, couldn't be more different. When you come here, you're going to eat.
Protein-heavy classics -- steak and eggs, biscuits & gravy -- share menu space with some inventive offerings, such as the Tenderloin Elvis (French toast, peanut butter, preserves, maple syrup and fried bananas) and a BBQ Benedict (pulled pork, a house-made cheddar-chive biscuit, chipotle hollandaise and a side option of polenta). Both are excellent, and you might want to share plates, since Elvis happens to be a seriously delicious carb bomb.
Get even more adventurous with Posole soup (braised pork shoulder, achiote broth, hominy, oregano, cabbage, onion, cilantro and lime) or the American-Thai fried rice (ketchup fried rice with carrots, peas and raisins, with ham, bacon, sausage and a fried egg on the side). The rice could benefit from some complexity, or a little more umami, but the dish is unique and certainly worth trying. A highball glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice feels a little stingy for $4.95, but otherwise, the portions are generous. Attentive service and attractive presentation count for something, too.
The one serious drawback? The hours (7-10:30 a.m.) are presumably lopped off to allow House of Thai to switch to lunch service. Maybe you've heard rumors of the continued existence of a mythical pre-brunch meal on weekends called breakfast, but that's going to be a challenge for a lot of folks used to rolling into Boogaloo's at a quarter to two. But this is a pre-brunch affair worth setting the alarm for.
Fused, Saturdays and Sundays, 7:00-10:30am, at House of Thai, 901 Larkin St., (415) 441-2248.
Follow Pete at @wannacyber