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Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Merigan Is Quite Possibly the Most Overpriced Sandwich In the City

Posted By on Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 8:00 AM

click to enlarge The $9 Half Italian Combo (here halved again): mortadella, salami, prosciutto cott, provolone, lettuce, onion, tomato, dressing and hots. - PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane
  • The $9 Half Italian Combo (here halved again): mortadella, salami, prosciutto cott, provolone, lettuce, onion, tomato, dressing and hots.

Very near the ballpark, South of Market has a new sandwich shop, Merigan. It's a project from Liz Shaw, formerly of the legendary A16, and it wears its Italian-American heart on its sleeve. If you're from the Empire, Garden or possibly Nutmeg State -- or wherever sandwiches like this are called "heroes" -- you will like them.

However, Merigan might also be the most outrageously overpriced thing in San Francisco. A humble cheesesteak with provolone and grilled onions costs $17. Half an Italian Combo? Nine dollars. No chips, no pickle, just half a sandwich. If you order the full one and train your mind ignore anything that might feel like a potent metaphor for a city that is rapidly spinning away from your grasp, you're still holding in your hands two pieces of bread with some meat and things that together cost almost twice the minimum wage.

click to enlarge While colorfully distressed, these cushion-less metal chairs aren't particularly comfortable. - PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane
  • While colorfully distressed, these cushion-less metal chairs aren't particularly comfortable.
click to enlarge PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane

If it were a great sandwich, or proportioned with Scooby and Shaggy in mind, maybe one could almost overlook the price -- maybe. Salumeria sells $12 sandwiches that are extraordinarily good, and $12 is already a borderline insane amount to pay for a sandwich. But Merigan's Italian Combo was just a good sandwich, on par with Mr. Pickle's or Courtney's. Saison, which is around the block from Merigan, commands outlandish prices because it's basically the apex predator of the San Francisco dining ecosystem. This is just lunch that costs twice what it should, and five times as much as a great banh mi in the Tenderloin.

Merigan, 636 Second St.

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About The Author

Pete Kane

Pete Kane

Bio:
Pete Kane is a total gaylord who is trying to get to every national park before age 40

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