Pasta with Bolognese sauce is the kind of comfort food most everyone loves. Many of us ate spaghetti with meat sauce growing up; it’s kid-friendly, inexpensive, and easy to make (providing you browned some ground beef and stirred in a jar of Ragu).
, a restaurant that emphasizes seafood with its Venetian menu, has many wonderful plates to tempt you — draped slices of hamachi crudo, a picture-perfect Dungeness crab tower, homey and rich cioppino – but don’t miss the restaurant's Bigoli. This dish arrives as long, thicker-than-spaghetti tubes of pasta dressed with an intensely flavored tuna Bolognese. If you didn’t know this were fish-based, you might think you were eating meat.
This version of Bolognese is definitely a labor of love; the chef has to grind the tuna and cook it down so the end result isn’t watery. Added to carefully sweated onions and celery, olive oil, tomatoes and tomato paste and a bit of wine, the tuna creates a sauce that tastes of long simmering and a hint of peppery spice. The plate arrives at table sprinkled with excellent Parmigiano and adorned with a tiny red Calabrian chile.
Pause to admire the simplicity. Inhale the enticing aroma. Wind your fork around the strands of bigoli, and try not to inhale the whole plateful at once. Like a little kid with a favorite food, you will want to, but this one is worth slowly savoring.