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Sandwiches

Wednesday, March 9, 2016

EAT ME: Central Station Deli's "The Don"

Posted By on Wed, Mar 9, 2016 at 2:00 PM

The Don - PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
  • The Don

I’ve made my peace with the fact that $10 is now about as cheap as a decent (non-banh mi) sandwich is going to be. It’s depressing to think of 10 bucks as the floor for the quintessential lunch option, but there you have it. I’ve still yet to meet the $18 sandwich that wowed me, but $11? That I can work with.

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Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Mom's in the TL Has a Lemongrass Beef Bun Mi

Posted By on Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 5:16 PM

PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane

I’m pretty sure John Keats wrote in one ode or another that “a new banh mi shop in the Tenderloin is a joy forever.” Newly open at 520 Leavenworth is Mom’s Bun Mi, a small sandwich shop that splits the difference between the banh mi strategies of San Francisco's best places.

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Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Between Two Slices: Swiss Cheese on Pastrami. Yay or Nay?

Posted By on Wed, Sep 30, 2015 at 11:00 AM

ADRIAN SPINELLI
  • Adrian Spinelli

Look, I've been putting Swiss cheese on my pastrami sandwiches for as long as I can remember. I like the way it tastes, and I like the soft sharpness of Swiss cheese, complementing the salty and smoky pastrami. It's the perfect flavor balance to go along with thin-cut rye bread slices and a slather of brown deli mustard. 

So to my chagrin, I was surprised when I got called out by some friends on Instagram for putting Swiss on my 'strami sando at Wise Sons Jewish Deli. One of them even deleted her comment ("Cheese?") since it seemed I'd already been sufficiently mocked for my decision (And yes, I Instagram photos of sandwiches that appear on this column on occasion, so save the social media hater-ade!)

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Friday, September 11, 2015

Between Two Slices: Oakland's Genova Italian Delicatessen

Posted By on Fri, Sep 11, 2015 at 2:00 PM

ADRIAN SPINELLI
  • Adrian Spinelli

"Genova is, like, orgasmic though. And you love sandwiches, and it's def one of the best sandos in the Bay!" she told me.

A bold statement.

I was sitting at Boot & Shoe on Grand Avenue. in Oakland, spending the day working from the East Bay. Lunch was on the docket and I had my bike with me. Italian delis are my favorite, with Molinari's in North Beach being S.F.'s sandwich mecca as far as I'm concerned. A gaze at Genova's website and it was a done deal. I had a particular sub in mind already (more on that later) and off I went on my bike. 

I rolled up into Temescal, on the stretch of Telegraph Avenue near 50th Street, into a small shopping center — something that's a bit of a unicorn in San Francisco — nevertheless, there lay the massive Italian deli that's been open since 1926!

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Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Rye Project's New Menu Wins Jewish Approval

Posted By on Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 12:45 PM

Corned beef on rye with Tysyacha sauce and a sour pickle. - ERIC S. BURKETT
  • Eric S. Burkett
  • Corned beef on rye with Tysyacha sauce and a sour pickle.

When my editor asked to me check out the changes at a "Jew-ish" deli in Soma, I knew I needed to be prepared when I went got there. Solid expertise is crucial in these matters and I knew who to ask for help. I brought my favorite Jew.

"Jew-ish"? Well, even the promotional materials for Rye Project, the most recent endeavor of Deli Board founder, Adam Mesnick, describes the SOMA sandwich joint as a “Newish Delicatessen.” In other words, he's “taking classic items like smoked fish, rye bread, steamed turkey, and pastrami, and modernizing the preparations while ensuring the quality of the product” as the restaurant's publicist, touting the year old establishment's new menu, puts it.

And he's doing it pretty darned well. Seat Two, my Jewish expert (originally from Syracuse, N.Y.), liked what he found and he appreciated Rye Project's honesty.

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Friday, August 21, 2015

Between Two Slices - Consistency is King at Yellow Submarine

Posted By on Fri, Aug 21, 2015 at 1:30 PM

ADRIAN SPINELLI
  • Adrian Spinelli
There's a common theme for sub shops and delis that have stood the test of time, providing a consistent experience every time you visit them. Katz's Deli in New York serves their sandwiches the exact same way on every visit and they have been since [looks down at Katz's Deli T-shirt that he's currently wearing] 1888. Molinari's in North Beach is notorious for having sandwich makers who are quick to whip out the snark if you falter through your order, but they've be that way since 1896 and I've never had a bad trip to Molinari's, the sandwiches are always on point. 

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Friday, July 10, 2015

Between Two Slices: Merigan's Classy Italian Subs

Posted By on Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 8:00 AM

ADRIAN SPINELLI
  • Adrian Spinelli

The first time I visited Merigan in SOMA, I was sporting a mean hangover. Thinking back on it, I don't even know what transpired the night before, but I do remember how Chef Liza Shaw's chicken parmesan sub ($13) was my hangover's best friend. It was the marinara first, with its bold flavor that could've easily flexed it's way into a glorious rigatoni al forno. Then it was the blend of provolone and mozzarella on top of the perfectly breaded chicken, the crispiness of which complemented the crunch on the toasted sesame seed roll. And then it was the basil leaves betwixt it all as the ultimate Italian aromatic. Future hangovers cower just thinking about it. 

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Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Jared the Subway Guy Has House Raided on Kiddie Porn Charges

Posted By on Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 9:35 AM

BRENDAN HOWARD / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
  • Brendan Howard / Shutterstock.com

Wow, if I worked for a company that only last year was issuing joyful press releases about how they were phasing out a chemical frequently found in yoga mats, I'd really be crying into my flavorless Sweet Onion Chicken Teriyaki today.

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Friday, May 15, 2015

Between Two Slices: Souvla's Greek Sandwich

Posted By on Fri, May 15, 2015 at 8:00 AM

ADRIAN SPINELLI
  • Adrian Spinelli

OK, OK...I know. You can't serve a Greek sandwich on two slices of bread. But we'll make an exception for Souvla in Hayes Valley and its pita-wrapped souvlaki-style sandwiches, cause this isn't your grandparents' Greek food stand. Gone is the mysterious cone-shaped meat, gone is the poster of the girl with '80s hair telling you to "Ask for a Kronos gyros!" No. French Laundry and Michael Mina veteran Charles Bililies has given Souvla the California cuisine treatment.

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Thursday, April 30, 2015

Between Two Slices: Naked Lunch

Posted By on Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 2:00 PM

ADRIAN SPINELLI
  • Adrian Spinelli

Around the corner from the city’s worst-slash-best-slash-worst-again strip clubs lies the cleverly named Naked Lunch. If you fancy a decadently sinful lunch hour, you can stop in for some skin, or you can just cheat on your gastroenterologist and stop in at North Beach’s Naked Lunch for my favorite kind of sin: Sandwich porn!

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