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Covered in elaborate murals, Darbar is the kind of restaurant you'd assume specializes in chicken tikka masala. And it does -- but the careful diner will have a much better meal by ordering the Punjabi and Pakistani dishes: Biriyanis thrumming with spices. Ground beef and lamb kebabs that practically crackle with cardamom and garlic. Nihari beef melting off the bone, chicken karahi vibrating with garlic and ginger, and achar gosht, a pickle-intensified goat curry. The naan's some of the best in town, too. Lunch offers a buffet and kabob wraps.