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The glory of the three-star French cooking celebrated in the famed Michelin guidebook lives on, happily for local gastronomes, in this venerable downtown restaurant. The extraordinary cooking of chef/owner Hubert Keller, presented by a flawless team of friendly and knowledgeable servers, is exhilarating. There are four prix fixe options (three-, four-, or five-course menus, or a set five-course vegetarian menu). You choose the courses from a vast two-page listing with a dazzling array of dishes both fabled and inventive. Gifts from the kitchen enhance the beautifully orchestrated evening. It's pricey, but a similar meal in New York or France would be double the sum.