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LuLu has not only maintained its high standards in the years since it opened and became instantly popular for its stylish hangarlike setting and hearty Mediterranean fare grilled and roasted in wood-fired ovens, but also improved upon them. Its wine service is user-friendly (you can choose among well-priced flights or create your own, since the restaurant offers 2- and 4-ounce pours), most of the cooking is excellent (we weren't dazzled by the desserts), and there's a general feeling of bonhomie and good cheer. One of S.F.'s best restaurants.