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Thermidor - Closed

8 Mint Plaza San Francisco, CA 94103 | South of Market | 415-896-6500

Location Description:

Thermidor rocks the retro, trying to strongarm the 1950s and '60s back into contemporary cuisine. The cocktail list reworks Ice Storm-era drinks like Moscow Mules and Old Pals. Chef Bruce Binn tries to recapture fine dining before the great modernizers of the early 1980s. On his menu of drinking snacks, appetizers, and a few entrees you'll find baked Alaska and pommes dauphines, lobster, and butter everywhere. Binn's talents allow him to transcend kitsch when he tweaks a dish beyond recognition - celery Victor transformed into celery-anchovy fritters, chips-and-dip a straw bonnet of potatoes, smoked trout, and caviar. The bloated grandeur of untreated classics like lobster Thermidor, however, doesn't translate well in the farmers' market era. Kyle Caporicci's relentlessly clever desserts are hard to quickly summarize, so all we can say is: Get the Fudgesicle.


Related Stories (11)

Details

  • Cuisine(s): American
  • Price: $$$$
  • Serving: Dinner, Lunch
  • Alcohol: Full bar
  • Reservations: Accepted, Recommended
  • Parking: No Parking, Street
  • Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards, cash
  • Attire: Casual to dressy
  • Extra Info: Muni: J, K, L, M, N, T.
  • Features: Private Party, Wheelchair Accessible

Related Stories

  • SFoodie: Get Your Drink On
    Classic cocktails from the 19th to early 20th centuries like the Sazerac have become standards on Bay Area bar menus. They're quickly being joined by their opposites, unfussy, accessible...
  • SFoodie: Eat This
    Monday, October 18, 2010Thermidor's been taking advantage of the Indian summer -- well, what little of an Indian summer we've had -- to set out a fleet of chairs and tables in Mint Plaza....
  • SFoodie: Doggy Bag
    Our favorite morsel from the Web. If you missed it yesterday SF Weekly food critic Jonathan Kauffman's vocal turn on KQED's Forum with Michael Krasny we embed for your pleasure: Kauffman...
  • SFoodie: Drink of the Week
    In our drinking adventures, we've sought out beverages made with egg whites and egg yolks as well as drinks that say they have egg in them but actually don't. The Louie Louie at Thermidor is...
  • SFoodie: Eat This
    Wednesday, August 11, 2010 Behold,some of the most memorable things SFoodie has tasted recently, a sort of "Eat This" honor roll from the past two weeks, arrayed in no particular order: ...
  • Dining: Reviewed
    The transition from outdated to newly retro always carries a shock. Think of the first time you saw your grandfather's skinny tie and tight, two-button suit jacket on some 20-year-old...
  • SFoodie: 'Eat'
    Thermidor can feel as hard to penetrate as Don Draper's psyche. On one hand, chef Bruce Binn's dinner rolls and baked Alaska and pommes dauphine leave a buttery trail through memory,...
  • SFoodie: Eat This
    Tuesday, July 27, 2010 Maybe all the opening press did Thermidor a disservice. Yeah, the place pays thematic homage to an age accessorized with maxi skirts, frozen daiquiris, and a Craig...
  • SFoodie: Drink of the Week
    Thermidor's Iceberg ($9) is a mini vacay on a bar stool. Mixologist Brooke Arthur's cooling frozen daiquiri has vanilla and grapefruit elements, but just a hint of the latter, meaning it's...
  • SFoodie: Kauffman
    Everyone who writes about food in San Francisco has spent the past year talking about how the city's restaurant scene is downscaling. Evidence: The proliferation of street carts and food...
  • SFoodie: Opening
    Inside Scoop tipped us off to the fact that Thermidor, Neil Jorgensen and Bruce Binn's new Mint Plaza restaurant, opened Saturday night. The restaurant is now open for drinks and dinner...
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