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Thermidor rocks the retro, trying to strongarm the 1950s and '60s back into contemporary cuisine. The cocktail list reworks Ice Storm-era drinks like Moscow Mules and Old Pals. Chef Bruce Binn tries to recapture fine dining before the great modernizers of the early 1980s. On his menu of drinking snacks, appetizers, and a few entrees you'll find baked Alaska and pommes dauphines, lobster, and butter everywhere. Binn's talents allow him to transcend kitsch when he tweaks a dish beyond recognition - celery Victor transformed into celery-anchovy fritters, chips-and-dip a straw bonnet of potatoes, smoked trout, and caviar. The bloated grandeur of untreated classics like lobster Thermidor, however, doesn't translate well in the farmers' market era. Kyle Caporicci's relentlessly clever desserts are hard to quickly summarize, so all we can say is: Get the Fudgesicle.