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At this handsome Italian North Beach restaurant - all checked tiles, carved woods, and mirrors - the menu lists more than a dozen regional styles of pizza, from Bronx to Naples, each with notes on crust characteristics and flour used. The pizza makers at Tony's Pizza Napoletana wear "Respect the Craftsman" T-shirts, the servers "Respect the Craft." Lest you worry it's all too Buca di Beppo, remember that owner Tony Gemignani has won a world pizza-making championship, and that he backs up his hype with good product. His showcase pizzas are the Neapolitan-style margherita pies baked in a wood-fired oven. The (imported flour) crust bubbles up higher and looser than those from Tony's direct competitors, and the crust chars just so.