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Txoko (pronounced "Choh-koh"), a cocktail-friendly joint with Basque influences and small plates, is the the evolution of Naked Lunch, Ian Begg and Ryan Maxey's popup sandwich shop, which still operates out of the side. In San Sebastián, pintxos are bar snacks pinned to a slice of bread with a toothpick, usually served en masse on a buffet, but here a pintxo is a minuscule course in itself: a ricotta-stuffed squash blossom, or a few mussels coated in romesco. Some dishes, such as most of the desserts, are overthought and/or overwrought, but dishes like the sweetbreads with chorizo and the halibut with sweet-onion sauce and summer beans strike the right balance between creativity and good taste. The the best part of the menu may be Begg's cheese plates, each one carefully arranged around the cheese it showcases.