When we settled in at Beretta and perused the menu, I recognized its contents immediately. It's the very model of a modern pizzeria. There's an alluring and simple combination of small-plate antipasti, with vegetable dishes followed by a few fish offerings and an assortment of salumi; a few salads, a dozen pizzas, and several risottos; and one different main dish a day. I was reminded immediately of Mario Batali's popular and influential Otto in New York, which opened in 2003, where I first tasted lardo, and the wonderful Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles, a collaboration among Batali, Nancy Silverton, and Joseph Bastianich, which followed in 2007. I love both places, and there couldn't be a better first thought... More >>>