Finding honest-to-God Louisiana cooking in this town is as difficult as tracking down a proper deep-dish pizza, an outstanding haggis, or a really good goulash. The cuisine of New Orleans is as multilayered, evocative, and elusive as the Big Easy itself, and doesn't adapt well to our cool climate and fear of powdered sugar and pig lard. How can peppers, andouille, and crawfish be expected to mingle and ferment to the proper degree of culinary excess in prim, foggy Northern California? There are a few pockets of bayou verisimilitude here and there — the red beans and rice at the Monte Carlo, the pulled-pork po'boy at Little Skillet — but an establishment imbued with the rollicking spirit and refined yet soulful cookery of southern Louisiana is a rara avis indeed once you venture past Sabine Lake. Queen's Louisiana Po-Boy Cafe comes pretty danged close in several... More >>>