There's something grounding about a plate of food we know we can't possibly finish. Perhaps it's that atavistic feeling of abundance and generosity it engenders. Perhaps it's simply knowing we won't be able to run or bend over for a few hours afterward. The familial appeal of Oye! Managua's chancho con tajadas maduras y queso frito ($9.50) — the Nicaraguan equivalent of a British fry-up — was immediate: Walnut-sized chunks of pork, marinated in achiote and spices, were braised and then given a final crusting in the fryer. Also showing evidence of fryer time were the half-dozen ripe plantains draped across the plate and the dense, chewy rectangle of pressed, marinated cheese perched on top. And while Brits would look askance at the lack of baked beans on the all-star platter, Nicaraguans round out the meal with a mound of fresh cabbage slaw... More >>>
You'll need to wait in line for the nacatamales, but they're well worth it.