The marvel of dining at some restaurants is knowing you're the endpoint of an intricate chain of command — a quick-moving, overheated team of cooks feeding plates to a crew of waiters and food runners. And then there are restaurants like To Hyang in the Inner Richmond, which has barely 30 seats, one of which often doubles as parking for a toy police car. Here, you have no sense of a dozen trained specialists, fiddling over the placement of each lettuce leaf. Instead, from the first bowl of stewed turnip greens to a stop-sign-colored stew of cod steaks and radish discs, you sense the presence of a... More >>>