As much as I never turn down a meal at Zuni, Camino, or Nopa, it's something of a relief to read the menu at Hibiscus in Oakland. There are no burgers. No pizzas. No wood-fire-roasted meats with preserved lemons or mushroom-studded farro. Hibiscus is as California-minded a restaurant as they come — just as clear-eyed, just as giddy over the seasons — but it's chef Sarah Kirnon's childhood in Barbados that informs her food, not Richard Olney cookbooks and glassy-eyed wanderings through... More >>>